The peep is fine at the shop but turns sideways when I draw — why?

String twist under load differs from at rest. Set the peep at full draw, then correct rotation with twists; expect to repeat once or twice as a new string settles over the first few hundred shots.

Which peep size should I use?

Smaller (1/8"–3/16") for target and precise centring, larger (1/4") for hunting in poor light. Match it so the sight housing ring fits just inside the peep at your eye distance.

Do I need a peep at all?

For sighted compound shooting, effectively yes — it's the rear reference. Some archers use a kisser button or a nose-to-string touch as the reference instead, but consistency suffers for most.

Peep Sight

A peep sight is a small ring served into the bowstring at eye level. At full draw the archer looks through it to the sight pin, which gives the aim a fixed rear reference — much like the rear aperture on a rifle — so the head and eye return to the same position every shot.

Detaily

The peep is what makes a compound sight repeatable. Without a rear reference, the eye can sit slightly differently behind the pin from shot to shot, moving the impact even though the pin was on the target. Centring the sight housing inside the peep locks the eye-to-sight geometry, which is why peep alignment is one of the first things to check when groups open up for no obvious reason.

Peep height is set at full draw with the archer's natural anchor, not by moving the head to find the peep. The peep should appear centred on the sight housing without any adjustment of the head; if it doesn't, the peep moves, not the anchor. Common apertures are 1/8" to 1/4": a smaller hole sharpens the sight picture and forces precise centring, a larger one gathers more light for low-light hunting and is more forgiving of small alignment errors.

Peep rotation is a recurring problem. As a new string settles, the twist that positions the peep changes and the peep can turn partly sideways at full draw. The fix is adding or removing a twist in the string (or half a twist, by moving strands), then re-checking after the string has settled. Tubeless peeps rely on the string's twist alone; tubed peeps use a rubber tube to pull the peep square but add noise and a failure point.

Because the peep sets the rear of the aiming line, any change to it — height, aperture, rotation — shifts sight marks. Note the peep height in the setup log and re-verify marks after moving it.

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The peep is fine at the shop but turns sideways when I draw — why?: String twist under load differs from at rest. Set the peep at full draw, then correct rotation with twists; expect to repeat once or twice as a new string settles over the first few hundred shots.
Which peep size should I use?: Smaller (1/8"–3/16") for target and precise centring, larger (1/4") for hunting in poor light. Match it so the sight housing ring fits just inside the peep at your eye distance.
Do I need a peep at all?: For sighted compound shooting, effectively yes — it's the rear reference. Some archers use a kisser button or a nose-to-string touch as the reference instead, but consistency suffers for most.