Center shot
Center-shot is the horizontal alignment of the arrow with the bow's riser — specifically, how far the rest positions the arrow shaft left or right of the bowstring's plane. A correctly set center-shot places the arrow so it clears the riser cleanly and travels straight downrange rather than launching at a horizontal angle.Detaily
On a compound bow, center-shot is adjusted by moving the rest laterally — typically using the rest's windage adjustment screw. The starting reference is to position the arrow shaft so it either bisects the string when viewed from behind (dead center) or sits a few millimeters to the outside of center (slightly weak-side), depending on the rest type and the bow's design. This starting point is always set by eye and then verified by a dynamic tuning method — paper tuning, walk-back tuning, or French tuning — because the ideal position depends on the arrow's dynamic spine and the bow's specific geometry.
A rest set too far to the center (too far left for a right-hand shooter) causes the arrow to launch slightly outward, producing a nock-right tear in paper and a rightward drift at distance. Too far toward the riser (too far right) pushes the arrow inward at launch, which creates a nock-left tear and left drift. The correction is always to move the rest in the same direction as the tear — nock-right means move rest right, nock-left means move rest left.
Center-shot interacts with arrow spine: a stiffer arrow tolerates less center-shot offset before the error shows up in paper or groups, while a weaker arrow requires more offset to compensate for its tendency to bend toward the riser. This is why changing point weight, arrow length, or draw weight can require re-checking center-shot even if the rest was not physically moved. Walk-back tuning is the most sensitive method for confirming center-shot at practical shooting distances.
Different rest types have slightly different center-shot starting points. A drop-away rest supporting the arrow from below is usually set closer to true center. A containment rest (like a full-capture design) may need the arrow positioned slightly differently because the arrow's contact points with the rest affect how it exits. Whenever changing rest type, re-establish center-shot from scratch with the new rest before relying on a previously dialed-in position.
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- Does center-shot change when I switch from field points to broadheads?
- It can. Broadheads typically have more surface area and react more strongly to small launch-angle errors. If your field-point-tuned setup groups well but broadheads drift, the first step is to check center-shot — a slight offset that field points forgive may become visible with a fixed-blade broadhead.
- How do I set a starting center-shot position before tuning?
- Sit behind the bow and look down the string at the arrow. Move the rest until the shaft appears to bisect the string or sits just outside of it (toward the riser side). This is a visual approximation only — confirm with paper tuning or walk-back tuning afterward, as the correct position depends on your specific spine and setup.
- My paper tear shows nock-left. Is that always a center-shot problem?
- Usually for a right-hand shooter, but not always. Grip torque, cam timing problems, and weak dynamic spine can all produce a leftward nock in paper. Rule out form issues first, then verify cam timing before assuming the rest needs to move.