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Fletching is a compensating device: its aerodynamic drag straightens an arrow that is bending or yawing through the air. That means a fletched arrow can land in the same group as a well-tuned setup even when the underlying arrow flight is imperfect. A bare shaft has no such correction, so it lands where the dynamic spine and the bow's tune actually send it. The gap between the bare-shaft group and the fletched group, and the direction of that gap, is the diagnostic signal.

The standard interpretation for a right-hand archer is: bare shaft hits left of fletched group → arrow is too stiff dynamically (try reducing point weight, lengthening the arrow, or reducing draw weight); bare shaft hits right of fletched group → arrow is too weak dynamically (try increasing point weight, shortening the arrow, or increasing draw weight if the bow allows). Vertical separation between the groups points to a nocking-point or rest-height issue rather than spine, and should be corrected first. Most practitioners shoot 3–5 fletched arrows and 2–3 bare shafts at 15–25 yards, enough distance for the spine mismatch to open up clearly.

You do not need to buy extra shafts for bare-shaft tuning — simply pull the vanes off one or two existing arrows, or use unbuilt raw shafts of the same weight. Bare shafts do fly lower than fletched at the same distance because they lack the drag-lift effect of fletching, so expect a slight vertical drop difference that is not diagnostic. What matters is horizontal separation and whether the bare shaft tilts noticeably at the target (visible nock walk).

Bare-shaft tuning is most informative after paper tuning has produced a reasonable tear. It confirms whether the paper-tuning fix carried through to real downrange flight and catches spine-selection errors that paper tuning alone may not resolve. One limitation: bare-shaft tuning requires consistent, relaxed form — a tight grip or a punched trigger will introduce torque that exaggerates or hides the spine signal.